
Flames illuminating the night, the smell of sulfur, blasts of hot air … the famous crater in Derweze isn’t called the “Door to Hell” for nothing. Who would have thought that this almost mystical place was created by mistake?
The Turkmen people literally sleep on natural gas. Turkmenistan has the fourth largest (after Russia, Iran and Qatar) natural gas reserves in the world.
In fact, the country has so much natural gas that its inhabitants can afford to waste it. The blazing crater in Derweze is the most obvious example of such extravagance; fumes of natural gas have been burning there for more than 40 years.
I had dreamed of seeing “The Gates of Hell” (known also as the “Door to Hell”) from the moment I first read about them. I realized that a burning crater in the middle of the desert could be one of the most exciting places I would ever encounter in my life. So, when I started planning my trip to Turkmenistan, I decided that Derweze would be a mandatory stop.
To reach the village, we set off from the capital of Turkmenistan (Ashgabat) and went straight north. The car ride into the desert took us about five hours. The views during this drive were quite monotonous; the desert landscape was interrupted by only scattered houses and herds of camels.
After turning from the asphalt road into the desert and a short slalom between dunes, we finally reached the burning crater in Derweze. As it turned out, one of our Turkmen guides was already there, and he had made a small camp about 100 meters away from the cavity.
A big blanket, small tents, a few flashlights, some food and a lot of vodka—according to him, that was all we needed to survive a night in the desert. Apparently, the vodka was there to neutralize the venom of scorpions (if stung), and not to be consumed for enjoyment. (Although a few shots wouldn’t have hurt!) The thought of scorpions running freely in the dark around us wasn’t particularly soothing, but I didn’t waste time: I took a flashlight and headed toward the crater.
The “Door to Hell” didn’t look impressive or scary from a distance. Everything changed when I came closer. About 30 meters from the crater, the air got thick. Unpleasant blasts of hot air hit my face while the overpowering smell of sulfur irritated my nostrils. Standing at the edge of the crater, I finally saw it in its full glory. The high flames blazed inside—it was as though I was facing the real gates of hell.
I felt tiny and insignificant standing next to the hole with a diameter of 70 meters. This impression intensified when I realized that the crater, the full moon and the smoldering fire from our campsite were probably the only sources of light in a radius of more than a 200 kilometers. All around me, as far as the eye could see, there was nothing but the dark Karakum Desert …
Several years ago, this place looked different. Derweze was a small village with several hundred inhabitants. However, in 2004, the former dictator of Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov, ordered the demolition of the village because “it was an unpleasant sight for tourists.”
Well, truth be told, Turkmen villages don’t look impressive—but, after all, poor appearance seems a trivial reason for depriving many people of their houses. Currently, a few stones hidden between the dunes are the only traces of the village.
Since there are no permanent residents in the area, the crater is in a very secluded area. The nearest town, Ashgabat, is located nearly 300 kilometers away. There aren’t any towns or villages nearby, except for few nomads’ dwellings.
This is why Derweze is one of the best places in which to embrace the feeling of solitude and be alone with your thoughts. Instead of people talking, cars passing by and mobile phones ringing, all you’ll hear are the crackling flames. (Gazing at the flames is mesmerizing: I spent a few hours sitting at the edge of the crater without getting bored.) It’s the best place for reflection, as your everyday life will be a few thousand kilometers away.
Almost everyone who hears about Derweze asks the question: How did this oddity appear in the middle of the Karakum Desert? The history of the “Door to Hell” dates back to the early 1970s. The Soviets planned to develop large-scale infrastructure for extracting crude oil and natural gas in this area. However, when they began their operations in Derweze, the ground beneath the drilling rig collapsed, forming a hole with a diameter of almost 70 meters.
After this incident, further mining operations were canceled, but a new problem appeared: Large amounts of gas were evaporating from the crater. The Soviets decided to solve this issue by setting the gas on fire and burning it all away in a few days. However, local gas resources were clearly underestimated, because the gas has been burning in flames up until now—that is, for more than 40 years.
Since then, the crater has been one of the main tourist attractions in Turkmenistan. But don’t expect crowds here. Turkmenistan is still one of the least visited countries in the world; only a few thousand foreigners visit the country every year (including professionals and diplomats). For comparison: The neighboring Iran and Uzbekistan are visited annually by, respectively, approximately four million and one million tourists.
The crater in Derweze is most impressive in total darkness. During the day, the surrounding sunny desert becomes a hell in itself. So, to enjoy the best views, you should spend the night nearby.
I left Derweze in a melancholic mood. Although the crater was created through human error, there’s something mystical about it. Besides, I knew that I would probably never see this place again. Several years ago, the president of Turkmenistan recommended taking measures to enable the extraction of natural gas in the area and limit gas waste in Derweze.
For now, the “Door to Hell” is still in flames. Perhaps, for the authorities of Turkmenistan, it’s hard to get rid of a tourist attraction that brings in steady income. In a few years, though, drilling rigs might dominate the landscape, and the “Gates of Hell” will become history. It wouldn’t surprise me—after all, revenue from the sale of natural gas would certainly be much greater than what the country could ever earn from tourism.
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