
Jordan is becoming wildly popular now, and for a reason. Petra and Wadi Rum are absolutely breathtaking, while many hidden gems lure those tourists who like adventures off the beaten path. It’s the land of rocks and red sand, with rich history and welcoming people. I wasn’t expecting much, and maybe this is why Jordan totally blew my mind.
I visited Jordan in January as I generally like traveling off the peak season. This approach had pros and cons.
I definitely appreciated mild temperatures, as well as avoiding the crowds of tourists that start somewhere in early spring. But I had to accept some trade-offs, especially not being able to visit an impressive canyon of Wadi Mujib, which is closed in winter.
So, these are the places I loved, as well as the places I didn’t like that much.
Amman
Amman, called Philadelphia a couple of centuries ago, is a concrete jungle. The muezzins’ calls to prayers mix with noisy car horns. The modern, glass-and-steel buildings stand not that far away from the traditional, sandy-colored part of the city. Amman is remarkably diverse, and this diversity is the essence of the Middle East.
As loud and chaotic as it is, the capital of Jordan is also very welcoming. It’s still not that touristy, but for a reason. There aren’t as many historical sites in the city for the visitors to see, compared with some other places in the Middle East.
In my opinion, the Citadel is by far the most beautiful place in Amman. While I was admiring the stunning, 360-degree view over the city, I could hear muezzins’ calls to prayer echoing all around me – and it was a truly magical moment.
The Roman Theater, located nearby, wasn’t as much of an attraction to me after visiting so many such places in Southern Europe. Nevertheless, it’s still a nice spot to relax and contemplate the rich history of the city.

Amman is noisy, but welcoming.
Tasting the local food in Hashem Restaurant or Al Quds (Jerusalem) Restaurant seems to be a very touristy thing to do. Still, these places are, in fact, often visited by the locals. Don’t leave without trying the traditional fattet hummus and delicious moutabal. And if you feel hungry early in the morning, just grab a cheap and yummy falafel sandwich from a street stand. This is exactly what I did just before stepping onto the bus to Petra.

The food is amazing!
Petra
One of the main tourist attractions in the Middle East, Petra is an absolute must during a trip to Jordan. For many centuries, the Nabatean city carved in the stone was a well-kept secret. Now that it’s open to visitors from all over the world, it still hasn’t lost its mystic charm.
If you have only one day in Petra, go through the narrow gorge called Al-Siq to the most famous sight—the Treasury (Al-Khazneh). Go past the Royal Tombs, the Street of Facades, the Theatre and the Great Temple to the end of the main trail and mount a few hundred steps to the Monastery (Ad-Deir). Don’t go back the same way—instead, follow the path to the High Place of Sacrifice. If you still have time, also take the short way up the Al-Khubtha Trail to the magnificent viewpoint, overlooking the Treasury.

The Treasury – the most popular place in Petra.

It’s worth climbing up the steps to the Monastery.
Nevertheless, the above itinerary may be hard to accomplish during short, winter days. I strongly recommend you to buy at least a 2-day ticket to Petra and enjoy all the sights without the unnecessary rush. Exploring less known parts of Petra is a pleasure in itself, and taking longer trails like the one to Little Petra or even to remote Jabal Haroun, feels like more of an adventure.
The tickets to Petra are expensive, but they’re worth it. If you plan to stay in Jordan for at least a few days, consider buying the Jordan Pass before you go; it includes both a visa to the country, as well as an entry ticket to Petra and many other sites.
PS: Petra by Night is a tourist trap. The Treasury indeed looks beautiful, but the whole experience is tedious and painfully overpriced. I can’t believe I fell for this!
PS 2: Please, please don’t ride camels or donkeys unless you’re a person with some kind of disability. Seriously, it’s lame. And you’re not supporting the economy this way—you’re just hurting the animals.

The higher you go, the fewer tourists you pass by.
Wadi Rum
If I were to name the most beautiful place in Jordan and had to choose between Petra and Wadi Rum, I would still pick Wadi Rum.
I’ve been to a few deserts before, but Wadi Rum is exceptional. The intense, orange and red color of sand provides an enormous portion of dramatic views and gives you a “Mars on Earth” experience.

These colors are out of this world!
The best way to make the most of a visit in this place if you have only one day, is to enter through the Visitor Center in the Wadi Rum village and buy a jeep tour. The tour covers all of the most popular attractions. It’s not cheap, but it’s probably the only way to see the diversity of the desert in only a few hours. Many operators provide meals throughout the day and accommodation for the night after the trip.
If you have more days, consider some desert trekking or just chill out in the middle of Wadi Rum, enjoying the views and the solitude as most tourists will leave for the day. Going for a day trip far south and climbing Jabal Umm ad Dami is also an appealing option. The highest mountain in Jordan offers sweeping views of Wadi Rum and Saudi Arabia. You can also enjoy activities like sandboarding or climbing. And unless you want to have the most touristy photos ever, don’t ride a camel.

Riding on top of a jeep is freaking awesome.
As you can see, there are many ways to enjoy this raw but beautiful land. Whichever of them you choose, be sure to spend at least one night in the desert. There are numerous Bedouin camps scattered across the desert; many of them are basic and budget-friendly (but there are some luxury options, as well).
The views of the starry sky are unbeatable. Why sleep in a 5-star hotel when you can have millions of stars above your head?

Nothing tastes better than sweet Bedouin tea in the middle of the desert.
Aqaba
For those of you who had been to the Red Sea before, for example to Egypt, Aqaba may be quite disappointing.
The city is a popular resort among Jordanian people and tourists because it’s basically the only place with sea access in the whole country. To me, this is where its advantages end. The fortress and the main mosque are just ok, while diving options aren’t as plentiful as in Egypt.
What I didn’t like in Aqaba the most was the clear division of the city center into two parts: the busy area around the public beach, and the resort area with all of the 5-star hotels. These two zones don’t mix, as if they were two different worlds.

Aqaba beach
Although I had an absolutely delicious cup of coffee and a yummy (and cheap) lunch very close to the city beach, I found Aqaba generally uninviting. Nevertheless, these feelings might have been brought on by the fact that my camera broke down there. (I miraculously restored my photos only after I was back in Warsaw.)

… but I found this cute orange chair!
The Dead Sea
I had mixed feelings about this place. It’s undoubtedly unique, but the super-salty water and mud baths weren’t actually as exciting as I would expect.
What I loved about the Dead Sea the most, was a drive along the Jordan Valley Highway at sunset. The rugged, rocky coast contrasting with the calmness of the water surface created an extraordinary vibe.
Nevertheless, the infrastructure at the Dead Sea coast leaves much to be desired. Apart from staying at a nice hotel, taking a mud bath or a short dip in the salty water, there isn’t really much to do there. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—if all you want to do is to relax in this specific place. But it’s not my cup of tea.
There’s More to See
Tourism in Jordan is on the rise. While Petra and Wadi Rum remain the highlights of almost every trip to this country, many different places are still underappreciated by foreign visitors. But an increase in their popularity seems to be only a matter of time.
Jordan is already investing heavily in tourism infrastructure, and I’ll be more than happy to revisit it one day. I’d love to see all the great places I missed: the intriguing biblical sites, castles and fortresses scattered across the mountainous and sandy areas.
And the desert.
My heart always lures me back to the desert.

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